Energy Conservation – A Way of Life

Consumers who go to the time and expense of designing and building an energy efficient home may be disappointed with the savings that they obtain if they do not practice energy conservation in their daily lives. For example, you may have paid for a well insulated home, sealed all the cracks, used caulking were you were supposed to and installed the best windows and doors. If you then leave windows open, forget to turn down the thermostat on cold winter days when you are not at home or turn up the thermostat on hot days, you may not achieve the savings that you were expecting. Leaving lights on, running appliances with partial loads e.g. the dishwasher etc can also increase your energy consumption beyond what you may have been expecting.

Our home energy checklist covers many items that home owners can consider as a means of taking advantage of all of the energy efficient attributes of their home to reduce their energy consumption even further. Making this approach part of your lifestyle will ensure that your energy savings continue after you have moved in to your new home and lived there for sometime.Many people are also concerned about the impact of conserving energy on their comfort and may be afraid to implement some energy saving concepts. We would like to politely point out that replacing an incandescent light with a fluorescent light will not only save you energy, but provide you with a more comfortable light in your home as well. Filling up the dishwasher or the clothes washer before running them takes no additional effort on your part and saves you energy usage at the same time. There are many examples such as these that will reduce your energy consumption and not impact your comfort. In fact plugging leaks and designing ceiling fans into the home can positively improve the aesthetics as well as reduce drafts.

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Our Home Energy Checklist

We have assembled a home energy checklist with both the new home buyer / builder in mind as well as items to check after you have moved in. Our objective is to assist you in saving energy, which means money in your pocket during the design as well as after you have moved into your new home. Saving energy can be divided into four areas: Home Design; Appliance & Lighting Selection, Energy Conservation – A Way of Life. This total systems and life style approach is really geared to maximizing your energy savings.

You might have the most efficient energy saving home built, however if you move in and leave all of the lights on all the time, leave the windows open when you are heating the house or cooling, your energy saving initiatives will not be as affective as you might have thought.With this in mind our energy savings checklist applies to the design phase as well as after you have moved into your new home. Even consumers who have been in their homes for a few years will find this checklist useful for managing their energy consumption.

Company Resource:   Mini-chillers  Industrial Air Conditioner  Modular Air Conditioner
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Types of Pond Pumps-Air Pumps

Air Pond Pumps do not provide any water flow. They draw air into the pump then diffuse it into small bubbles. Air pumps are most commonly used for pond winterization as they provide oxygenation and gas exchange without providing water flow.

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Types of Pond Pumps-Direct Drive Pumps

Direct Drive Pond Pumps are more common to external pumps as they have the ability to draw water toward them. Direct drive pumps are appropriate for applications which require a significant amount of head height – such as pumping water upslope for a waterfall. They are generally more costly to operate than a magnetic drive pond pump, but in many cases they are the only choice when a substantial amount of water flow is needed. If you are purchasing a submersible direct drive pump, be sure that it is oil free, as leaking oil can harm pond fish and aquatic plants. Magnetic Drive Pumps: Magnetic Dive Pond Pumps (or Mag Drive Pumps) are usually designed as submersible pumps as most are unable to draw water into the pump. The power is created through an electromagnetic field which turns the impeller. Their main benefit is energy efficiency and a longer useful life. In addition, Mag Drive pond pumps are easy to repair as typically all that is needed is a magnetic shaft and impeller (the only moving parts). The downsides are they cannot provide sufficient water flow for high head applications, and they are slightly more expensive than direct drive pond pumps. In general, if you do not have a high head requirement and are looking for a submersible pump, the magnetic drive pond pump is the best choice.

Company Resource:   Heat Pump, Household Heat Pump, Swimming Pool Heat Pump
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What Are the Advantages and Disadvantages of the Different Mechanisms

The tether float gets obstructed from movement easier; the switches require more frequent replacement, however, the pump is cheaper.
The vertical float is protected against obstruction of movement; the switch requires more frequent replacement than a diaphragm or probe but less than the tether float. Some brands offer the ability to change the switch without removing the sump pump fom the pit.
A diaphragm and probe are very dependable and require less service.

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How Can You Determine Which Sump Pump is Best for You

The following situations are provided to help you make your decision.

A. Do you have a sump pit diameter under or over 12″?
The Basement Watchdog sump pump regardless of HP is the smallest pump in width (6 to 7″).
If the pit diameter is under 12″, the Simer 1/3 HP and Little Giant 1/3 HP will fit.
If the pit diameter is 18″, you have most flexibility in model selection.
B. Does your sump pit get much water during heavy rains?

If not, a 1/3 HP will be sufficient.
If yes, a 3/4 HP is recommended.
C. Do you want to exchange a faulty float/switch mechanism without having to remove the entire pump from the sump pit?

The Basement Watchdog sump pump float/switch mechanism is attached to the discharge pipe thus by unclamping it you can raise it up, exchange the faulty switch, lower the cage into the pit and clamp in onto the discharge pipe.
D. Do you get a lot of heavy rain casing your sump pump to run continuously for hours?

The larger horse powered models (3/4 HP) are built for continuous operation. This includes Basement Watchdog, Flotec, Little Giant’s Big John and Wayne.
E. Is sump pump durability important?

The 3/4 HP pumps for Flotec and Wayne have full lifetime warranty.
The 3/4 HP pump for Simer have a limited lifetime warranty.
Little Giant pumps have no warranty.
The pumps under 3/4 HP have warranties varying from one to five years.
F. Is float switch failure of concern?

The Little John IntelliSwitch diaphragm, and the Wayne Switch Genius are the longer lasting switch types. The Basement Watchdog has two switches so if one fails the other one begins operating.
G. Is energy consumption of concern?

To date, the Basement Watchdog uses the least amount with only 3 to 4 amps depending upon the amount of HP.
H. Are you concerned about sump pump switch failure and have an 18″ diameter pit or larger?

Installing two sump pumps will provide added peace of mind. Two Basement Wasthdogs would fit. That would provide four operating switches with three years warranty per pump.
One 3/4 HP Flotec or Simer with one Basement Watchdog would fit.The Flotec and Simer offer lifetime warranties. The Basement Watchdog has two switches and you don’t have to remove the pump from the pit to change them as you would with other pumps.

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Your condensate pump

When air conditioning systems operate in hot summer weather, moisture is wrung out of the air in the form of liquid

condensate. Most of today’s cooling systems do a spectacular job of dehumidification, pulling upwards of 20 quarts of water

out of the air per hour. In most systems, if situated in the attic or basement, this water will flow by gravity either to an

outside roof gutter or nearby sink or drain. Many systems have condensate drains that are either below the level of nearby

plumbing or are so far away as to make gravity drainage impractical. Here, we use a small device called a condensate removal

pump. Usually about the size of a shoe box, this device consists of a water reservoir, a float switch and a small pump.

As condensed water trickles into the pump reservoir, the float switch rises until it turns the pump on. The pump then

discharges the water, usually through a small plastic tube, to a sink, drain line or even the exterior of the house. These

pumps should be tested each year. A proper test will involve pouring significant amounts of water into the pump and making

sure the switch activates the pump and the pump properly evacuates the water through the tubing. At this time, the tubing

should also be examined for clogs, kinks or breaks. When a condensate pump fails, those 20 quarts of water per hour will

drain by gravity right to the floor, or in the case of an overhead air conditioning system, through an upstairs ceiling as it

escapes from your attic.Today, often, these pumps can be equipped with safety switches which will turn your system off in the

event the reservoir fills to the top and the pump fails to operate.

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Ready to Re-assembly your Pool Centrifugal Pump

But first you need to replace the volute paper gasket and secure it in place with a little RTV silicone sealant. Always use non-hardening silicone lube on all your swimming pool and spa pump repairs. DO NOT use Vaseline or any other lubricants made with petroleum. They can cause problems by eating away some paper and plastic gaskets. Once the paper gasket is in place, you can begin your re-assembling of your pump.
Slide the volute cover plate assembly into the volute of the pump housing.
Line up the holes for the cover bolts.
Insert the bolts and tightened in a crisscross pattern. This helps the cover plate assembly to slide into place without the impeller binding to the walls of the volute. housing.
Re-insert the flex coupling into its hub and slide the motor back into place; thus aligning the hub on the motor to the end of the flex coupling.
Insert the holding bolts for the motor. Align the pump and motor to ensure proper operation. Failure to do this will cause your mechanical seal to fail again.
Open the valves to both the discharge and the suction side of your pool pump.
Restore the electrical power supply to the pump motor.
Run the pump system and check for any leaks.

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Centrifugal Pump:the plant system designer

To properly accomplish a good and thorough ratinghizing of a centrifugal pump, the plant system designer should at a minimum do the following.

1. Understand the fundamentals of performance of the pump itself.
2. Understand the mechanical details required for a pump to function properly in a system.
3. Calculate the friction and any other pressure losses for each “side” of the pump, suction, and discharge.
4. Determine the suction side and discharge side heads for the mechanical system connecting to the pump.
5. Determine the important available net positive suction head (NPSH,) for the pump suction side mechanical system, and compare this to the manufacturer’s required net positive suction head (NPSH,) by the pump itself. This requires that the designer makes a tentative actual pump selection of one or more manufacturers in order to use actual numbers.
6. Make allowable corrections to the pump’s required NPSH (using charts where applicable) and compare with the available NPSH. The available must always be several feet (mm) greater than the corrected required.
7. Make fluid viscosity corrections to the required performance if the fluid is more viscous than water.
8. Examine specific speed index, particularly if it can be anticipated that future changes in the system may be required.
9. If fluid being pumped is at elevated temperature (usually above 90o F (32.2o C )), check temperature rise in the pump and the minimum flow required through the pump.
10. Make pump brake horsepower corrections for fluids with a specific gravity different from water. Select actual driver (electric motor, usually) horsepower in order that horsepower losses between the driver and the pump shaft will still provide sufficient power to meet the pump’s input shaft requirements.
11. If the pump has some unique specialty service or requirements, recognize these in the final sizing and selection. Consult a reliable manufacturer that produces pumps for the type of service and applications and have them verify the analysis of your system’s application.

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Pump Designs Have Largely Been Standardized

Pump designs have largely been standardized. based on application experience, numerous standards have come into existence. As special projects and new application situations for pumps develop, these standards will be updated and revised. Common pump standards are:

1. American Petroleum Institute (API) Standard 610, Centrifugal Pumps for Refinery Service.
2. American Waterworks Association (AWWA) E101, Deep Well Vertical Turbine Pumps.
3. Underwriters Laboratories (UL) UL 51, UL343, UL1081, UL448, UL1247.
4. National Fire Protection Agency (NFPA) NFPA-20 Centrifugal Fire Pumps.
5. American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME).
6. American National Standards Institute.
7. Hydraulic Institute Standards (Application).

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